Varanasi

What Are the Top Things to Do in Varanasi?

I need to say this upfront: Varanasi is the most intense travel experience I’ve had anywhere in the world. It’s not a city you casually visit — it confronts you with the full spectrum of human existence in a way no other place does. Cremation pyres burn 24 hours a day at Manikarnika Ghat. Sacred cows wander through ancient lanes barely wider than your shoulders. Bodies wrapped in marigold garlands are carried to the river on bamboo stretchers by chanting processions. And yet, simultaneously, children play cricket on the ghats, laundry dries on the steps, and chai wallahs serve tea as if all of this is perfectly normal — because in Varanasi, it is.

My first day was disorienting. By the second morning, something shifted. I stopped fighting the chaos and started seeing the beauty in it. By the time I left, Varanasi had changed something in me that I’m still trying to understand.

The Sunrise Boat Ride

The sunrise boat ride (INR 300-500/$4-6 per person for a shared boat, INR 1,500-2,000 for a private boat for one hour) is the defining Varanasi experience and the single thing I’d recommend above everything else. You depart before dawn from Dashashwamedh Ghat and float south along the 88 ghats as the city slowly wakes up.

The light at sunrise on the ancient sandstone buildings is extraordinary — shifting from grey to pink to gold in the space of twenty minutes. Along the ghats, you watch pilgrims descend the stone steps for their morning ritual bath in the Ganges. Sadhus (holy men) sit in meditation posture, draped in saffron, seemingly oblivious to everything. Yoga practitioners stretch on the upper steps. Women wash clothes, slapping fabric against the stone in a rhythm that has accompanied every Varanasi morning for centuries.

I hired a private boat and asked the boatman to go slowly. He barely used his oars — the current did most of the work, and we drifted past ghat after ghat in near-silence. The moment the sun cleared the opposite bank and hit the buildings directly, the entire city turned gold. I’ve watched sunrise in dozens of countries, and nothing compares to this.

The Ganga Aarti

The evening Ganga Aarti (fire ceremony) at Dashashwamedh Ghat happens every single evening without exception — no cancellations for weather, holidays, or world events. Seven priests in orange robes perform an elaborate synchronized ritual with enormous multi-tiered fire lamps, incense, conch shells, and devotional chanting. Thousands of pilgrims and visitors crowd the ghat steps and boats on the river to watch.

The ceremony lasts about 45 minutes and is one of the most visually powerful rituals I’ve witnessed. The fire lamps swing in perfect arcs, the bells ring, the crowd pulses with devotional energy, and the Ganges receives it all in dark, quiet acceptance. Arrive 45 minutes early for a seat on the steps (best position: upper tier, centre, facing the priests). Alternatively, watch from a boat on the river (INR 200/$2.50) — the view from the water gives you the full panorama of the ceremony against the backdrop of the ancient city.

Walking the Ghats

The ghats — 88 stone stairways descending from the old city to the river — are the physical and spiritual spine of Varanasi. Each has its own character and purpose. Dashashwamedh is the main ceremonial ghat. Assi Ghat at the southern end is more relaxed, popular with long-term visitors and students, with a morning chai culture and a gentler energy. Manikarnika Ghat is the main cremation ghat where bodies have been burned continuously for thousands of years.

I walked the full ghat stretch from Assi to Manikarnika (about 3km) on my second morning, starting at 6 AM. The walk passes through the entire spectrum of Varanasi life — bathers performing morning puja, boatmen readying their vessels, sadhus under parasols, boys playing cricket, dogs sleeping on the warm stone. It’s a walk I’ll remember for the rest of my life.

Manikarnika Ghat

Manikarnika deserves special mention. This is the main burning ghat — the place where Hindu cremation has happened continuously for millennia. The funeral pyres burn around the clock, tended by the Doms (the hereditary custodians of the fire). Photography is strictly forbidden — your phone will be confiscated, and this is enforced aggressively and rightfully. Approach with deep respect.

In Hindu belief, dying in Varanasi or being cremated here grants moksha — liberation from the cycle of death and rebirth. Witnessing the cremations is not morbid; it’s deeply moving and, for many visitors, the most profound moment of their time in India. Stand at a respectful distance, observe quietly, and don’t photograph. If someone approaches you claiming to be a “guide” or asking for donations for firewood, it’s a scam. The burning ghats are free to observe.

Sarnath: Where Buddhism Began

Sarnath (10km from Varanasi, taxi INR 500/$6 return, 45 minutes each way) is one of the four most sacred Buddhist pilgrimage sites in the world — this is where Gautama Buddha gave his first sermon after attaining enlightenment in the 5th century BC. The Dhamek Stupa (3rd century BC, INR 300/$4) marks the exact spot, and the surrounding park is green, peaceful, and a stark contrast to the intensity of Varanasi’s old city.

The Sarnath Museum has the original Lion Capital of Ashoka — the four-lion sculpture that is now India’s national emblem. The Buddhist sculptures here rank among the finest in the country. Most visitors skip Sarnath, and that’s a mistake. After the emotional weight of Varanasi’s ghats, the tranquillity of Sarnath feels like a necessary exhale.

The Old City and Its Lanes

Varanasi’s old city (chowk area) is a dense maze of lanes too narrow for cars. GPS fails regularly — the lane widths confuse the software and the rooftop overhangs block satellite signals. The key landmarks to orient by are the three main ghats (Dashashwamedh, Manikarnika, Assi) and the Kashi Vishwanath Temple (free entry for Hindus; non-Hindus can view from the surrounding lanes but cannot enter the inner sanctum). The temple’s golden spire is visible from many points in the old city and serves as a useful navigation beacon.

The lane from Dashashwamedh to Kashi Vishwanath runs through one of the most chaotic, colourful, and photogenic stretches of urban India — silk shops, flower garland vendors, paan stalls, and chai wallahs packed into lanes where two people can barely pass abreast. I hired a local guide for my first afternoon (INR 500/$6) and it was the best money I spent in Varanasi. After that, getting productively lost was half the experience.

Where Should I Stay in Varanasi?

• BrijRama Palace — Heritage palace right on the ghats with a terrace that gives the most atmospheric view of Varanasi at sunset. The rooms blend period furniture with modern comfort, and the restaurant serves excellent Banarasi cuisine. Spiritual luxury at its finest. From INR 16,500/night ($200)
• Hotel Ganges View — Simple rooms but an unbeatable ghat-front location near Assi Ghat. The rooftop has direct river views and a relaxed, artistic atmosphere. The guesthouse has hosted writers, artists, and filmmakers for decades. From INR 4,000/night ($48)
• Rashmi Guest House — Clean mid-budget option on Meer Ghat with genuine river views. The owner is knowledgeable and can arrange boat rides and guides. From INR 2,000/night ($24)
• Stops Hostel — Best backpacker option, near Assi Ghat with a rooftop terrace, social atmosphere, and staff who know the city well. From INR 500/night ($6)

What Should I Eat in Varanasi?

Varanasi is a sacred city, and meat is rare in the old town. The food is overwhelmingly vegetarian, deeply flavoured, and cheap. The street food culture here is one of India’s best.

• Blue Lassi — Tiny shop near Kashi Vishwanath Temple, operating since 1925. The lassi is served in clay cups (kulhad) and is impossibly thick, topped with cream, nuts, and seasonal fruit. The saffron-pistachio version is the classic. Queues are long but move quickly. INR 80 ($1)
• Kashi Chat Bhandar — The best chaat (savoury snacks) in the holy city. The pani puri is explosive with tamarind and mint water, and the tamatar chaat (tomato-based) is a Varanasi specialty you won’t find elsewhere. INR 100/person ($1.20)
• Baati Chokha — Dedicated to the local specialty: baked wheat balls (baati) served with mashed roasted vegetables (chokha) and three types of chutney. Simple, earthy, and deeply satisfying. INR 150/person ($2)
• Pizzeria Vaatika — Rooftop restaurant overlooking the Ganges at Assi Ghat with surprisingly good pizzas, pastas, and salads alongside Indian options. The view alone is worth the visit. INR 400/person ($5)
• Thandai shops — Varanasi’s signature spiced milk drink is infused with almonds, saffron, cardamom, and rose petals. During Holi, many shops add bhang (cannabis) — perfectly legal at licensed government shops. Non-bhang versions are delicious year-round. INR 40-60 ($0.50-0.70)

How to Get to Varanasi

Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport (VNS) has daily flights from Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore, and Kolkata (1-2 hours, INR 2,500-6,000). The airport is 25km from the ghats; pre-paid taxi costs INR 600-800 ($7-10).

By train, the overnight services from Delhi are the classic route — the Shiv Ganga Express and Kashi Vishwanath Express take 12-14 hours (INR 500-2,000 depending on class). Book AC 2-tier or 3-tier for comfort. From Agra, overnight trains take about 12 hours. From Kolkata, the Vibhuti Express is 12 hours.

Varanasi’s main station is Varanasi Junction (BSB) — auto-rickshaws to Assi Ghat cost INR 200-300 ($2.50-3.50). The newer station, Manduadih, is less chaotic and serves some express trains.