Delhi

What Are the Top Things to Do in Delhi?

Delhi hit me like a wall the first time I stepped out of Indira Gandhi Airport. The heat, the noise, the sheer density of humanity moving in every direction. I’ve been back multiple times now, and I’ll be honest — the first few hours in Delhi are always disorienting. But give it half a day and the city starts making sense, and by the second morning, you’ll realize Delhi has more to offer than most cities you’ve ever visited.

Old Delhi

Old Delhi is where the city’s Mughal soul lives, and it’s the part that most first-time visitors remember forever. Start at Chandni Chowk, one of Asia’s oldest and busiest market streets — Emperor Shah Jahan laid it out in the 17th century as an imperial shopping avenue, and it hasn’t slowed down since. The lane is narrow, chaotic, packed with cycle-rickshaws and pedestrians, and absolutely electric with energy. I walked it on my first visit with my jaw open for an hour straight.

The Red Fort (INR 600/$7) anchors Old Delhi’s northern edge — this massive Mughal fortress is where India’s Prime Minister gives the Independence Day address every August 15th. The Diwan-i-Am (Hall of Public Audience) and Diwan-i-Khas (Hall of Private Audience) are beautiful, though the interior has been stripped of most of its original decoration over centuries of war and looting. The sound and light show in the evening (INR 80/$1) gives decent historical context.

Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque and a masterpiece of Mughal architecture, sits just south of the Red Fort. Entry is free but the tower climb costs INR 300 — and it’s worth every rupee for the panoramic view of Old Delhi’s rooftops, minarets, and the Red Fort in the distance. Remove your shoes, dress modestly (they provide coverings), and visit outside of Friday prayer times.

The Spice Market at Khari Baoli is just west of Chandni Chowk and claims to be Asia’s largest wholesale spice market. The air here is thick with turmeric, chilli, and cardamom dust — I sneezed continuously for twenty minutes. The traders move enormous burlap sacks of spices by handcart, and the whole scene feels like it hasn’t changed in centuries.

New Delhi

New Delhi feels like an entirely different city. The British colonial architect Edwin Lutyens designed the wide, tree-lined boulevards and grand government buildings in the 1920s, and the result is spacious, manicured, and orderly — the polar opposite of Old Delhi’s chaos.

Humayun’s Tomb (INR 600/$7) is my favourite monument in Delhi and one of the most underrated sites in India. Built in 1572, it served as the architectural template for the Taj Mahal — same Mughal garden layout, same combination of red sandstone and white marble, same sublime proportions. The difference is that Humayun’s Tomb gets a fraction of the Taj’s crowds. I visited at golden hour with maybe forty other people in the entire complex. The surrounding Hazrat Nizamuddin area has a qawwali music tradition — if you’re in Delhi on a Thursday evening, the Nizamuddin Dargah shrine has Sufi qawwali singers performing after sunset. It’s one of the most emotionally intense musical experiences I’ve had anywhere.

India Gate is Delhi’s war memorial and the heart of New Delhi’s ceremonial axis. The eternal flame at the base honours India’s unknown soldiers. In the evenings, families spread out on the lawns with ice cream and the entire area becomes a massive picnic ground. Qutub Minar (INR 600/$7) is the world’s tallest brick minaret at 72 metres — built in 1192, it’s the oldest monument in Delhi and the iron pillar in its courtyard has famously resisted rust for 1,600 years.

The Lotus Temple is a Baha’i house of worship shaped like a giant lotus flower with 27 marble petals. Entry is free, the interior is serenely quiet, and the building at sunset — when the white marble catches the last light — is one of Delhi’s most photographed images.

Exploring Delhi’s Neighbourhoods

Connaught Place (CP) is Delhi’s commercial heart — a massive circular market built by the British in the 1930s with colonnaded white buildings. The inner and outer circles are numbered blocks with everything from bookshops to international restaurants. The underground Palika Bazaar below CP sells electronics and clothing at negotiable prices.

Hauz Khas Village in South Delhi is where Delhi’s young, creative class congregates — converted medieval ruins housing art galleries, boutique shops, and rooftop bars overlooking a 13th-century reservoir. The deer park adjacent is one of Delhi’s best green spaces.

Lodi Garden is a free public park scattered with 15th-century Mughal tombs — joggers run past 500-year-old monuments at dawn, and the garden is immaculate. This is my favourite morning walk in Delhi.

Where Should I Stay in Delhi?

• The Imperial — Grand colonial hotel near Connaught Place with the best bar in Delhi (1911 Bar). The art collection alone is museum-worthy. Walking distance to Janpath and Connaught Place. From INR 15,000/night ($180)
• The Oberoi — Modern luxury in the diplomatic enclave with views over the Delhi Golf Club greens. The restaurant 360 is exceptional. From INR 20,000/night ($240)
• Hotel Amax Inn — Solid mid-budget option in Paharganj, the backpacker district near New Delhi Railway Station. Clean rooms, helpful staff, walking distance to Connaught Place. From INR 2,000/night ($24)
• Zostel Delhi — Best hostel in the city with a social rooftop and walking distance to Paharganj. Good for solo travellers. From INR 1,000/night ($12)
• Haveli Dharampura — A restored 19th-century haveli in Old Delhi with rooftop views of Jama Masjid. The most atmospheric accommodation in the city. From INR 8,000/night ($96)

What Should I Eat in Delhi?

Delhi is, without qualification, the best food city in India — and a strong contender for the best food city in Asia. The range from INR 50 street food to INR 6,000 tasting menus is staggering, and both ends of the spectrum are world-class.

• Karim’s — Operating since 1913 in a lane behind Jama Masjid. The seekh kebabs are smoky and spiced perfectly, the nihari (slow-cooked meat stew) is legendary, and the butter naan arrives hot and glistening. This is Mughlai cooking at its purest. INR 400/person ($5)
• Paranthe Wali Gali — A narrow Old Delhi alley lined with paratha shops, each stuffing their flatbreads with everything from potato to mixed nuts to rabri (sweet cream). Breakfast here with a sweet lassi is one of Delhi’s essential experiences. INR 150/person ($2)
• Indian Accent — India’s most celebrated fine dining restaurant, and my best meal in the country. The tasting menu reinvents Indian cuisine with precision and creativity. The daulat ki chaat (a Delhi winter milk foam delicacy) served as dessert is unforgettable. INR 6,000 ($72) for tasting menu
• Saravana Bhavan — South Indian chain near Connaught Place with perfect dosas, idlis, and filter coffee. Clean, vegetarian, and a great counterpoint to Old Delhi’s Mughlai richness. INR 250/person ($3)
• Dilli Haat — Open-air food court near INA Metro with stalls representing every Indian state. My strategy: Nagaland stall for smoked pork, Rajasthan for dal baati, and Tamil Nadu for filter coffee. Entry INR 30 ($0.40), food INR 300/person ($4)
• Nathu’s — Bengali Market location for chaat, samosas, and sweets. The raj kachori (giant crispy shell filled with chutneys and yogurt) is my Delhi street food obsession. INR 100/person ($1.20)