Delhi has been capital to empires for a thousand years — each one layering its monuments over the last, until the city became a museum you live inside.
Things to Do
Old Delhi is where Delhi’s soul lives. Start at Chandni Chowk, one of Asia’s oldest and busiest markets — the sensory overload is part of the experience. The Red Fort (INR 600/$7) anchors the area. Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque, offers rooftop views for INR 300. Walk through the spice market where turmeric dust hangs in the air.
New Delhi feels like a different city entirely. Humayun’s Tomb (INR 600/$7) is arguably more photogenic than the Taj — and without the crowds. India Gate is Delhi’s Arc de Triomphe. The Lotus Temple is free and surreally beautiful at sunset. Qutub Minar (INR 600/$7) is the world’s tallest brick minaret.
Red Fort at Dusk
The same red sandstone walls that heard Mughal emperors now hear the evening call to prayer — 400 years of history compressed into one view from Chandni Chowk.
Where to Stay
The Imperial — Colonial grandeur near Connaught Place, from INR 15,000/night ($180)
The Oberoi — Modern luxury in the diplomatic enclave, from INR 20,000/night ($240)
Hotel Amax Inn — Solid budget option in Paharganj, from INR 2,000/night ($24)
Zostel Delhi — Best hostel, rooftop vibes, from INR 1,000/night ($12)
Where to Eat
Karim’s — Mughlai legends since 1913. Seekh kebabs and nihari. INR 400/person ($5)
Paranthe Wali Gali — Stuffed paratha alley in Old Delhi. INR 150/person ($2)
Indian Accent — India’s best fine dining. Tasting menu INR 6,000 ($72)
Saravana Bhavan — South Indian chain, perfect dosas. INR 250/person ($3)
Dilli Haat — Open-air food court with regional cuisines from every state. INR 300/person ($4)
Chaat at Midnight
Delhi's street food culture runs 24 hours — from morning parathas in Chandni Chowk to late-night kebabs at Bademiya, the city never stops feeding you.
Scott’s Pro Tips
Getting around — Delhi Metro is excellent. Clean, cheap (INR 30-60), covers everywhere. Uber/Ola for everything else. Avoid auto-rickshaws unless you enjoy negotiating.
Best time — October to March. Summers hit 45°C — genuinely dangerous heat. Winter mornings can be foggy (Dec-Jan).
Money — ATMs everywhere. UPI payments accepted at most shops. Keep INR 100 notes for street food.
Safety — Tourist police at major sites. Drink bottled water only. Carry hand sanitizer.
Culture tip — Remove shoes before entering temples and mosques. Dress modestly at religious sites.
Old Delhi navigation — It’s a maze. GPS is helpful but often wrong in the narrow lanes. Ask locals — Delhi residents are genuinely helpful.
Day trips — Agra (Taj Mahal, 2 hours by Gatimaan Express) and Jaipur (4 hours by express train) are the classic additions to a Delhi base.
The City That Changes You
Delhi doesn't ease you into India — it drops you straight in. Give it two days and it gives you everything: chaos, beauty, history, and the best food on the subcontinent.
Quick-Reference Essentials
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Airport
DEL — Indira Gandhi International
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Climate
Hot summers, cool winters — best Oct-Mar
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Daily Budget
$25-80 USD
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Language
Hindi, English widely spoken
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Before You Go: Travel Insurance
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Frequently Asked Questions
Yes, especially in tourist areas like Connaught Place, Chandni Chowk, and South Delhi. Use registered taxis or Uber/Ola. Avoid walking alone in unfamiliar areas at night. The Metro is excellent and very safe. Solo female travelers should exercise standard caution — dress modestly, take rideshares at night, and stay in well-reviewed areas.
2-3 days covers the highlights well. Old Delhi (Chandni Chowk, Red Fort, Jama Masjid) takes a full day. New Delhi (India Gate, Humayun's Tomb, Lotus Temple, Qutub Minar) takes another. Half a day for Lodi Garden and the museum district. If you're using Delhi as a base for Agra and Jaipur, 2 nights either side is plenty.
Paranthe Wali Gali for stuffed parathas in Old Delhi. Chandni Chowk for chaat, jalebi, and kachori. Karim's for Mughlai seekh kebabs and nihari (since 1913). Dilli Haat for regional dishes from every Indian state. Budget INR 200-500 per meal ($2.50-6).
Delhi Metro is excellent — clean, cheap (INR 30-60 per ride), and covers nearly everywhere you'll want to go. Buy a rechargeable Metro card at any station. Use Uber or Ola for areas not on the Metro and for nighttime travel. Auto-rickshaws work for short hops but always agree on a price before getting in. Avoid cycle-rickshaws unless you're in Old Delhi's narrow lanes.
October to March offers the most comfortable weather. October-November and February-March are the sweet spots — clear skies, temperatures 15-25°C. December-January can get cold (below 5°C at night) and foggy. Avoid April-June (extreme heat, 45°C+) and July-September (monsoon, though manageable). The festival season of October-November (Diwali, Dussehra) is spectacular.
Red Fort (INR 600/$7) is the 17th-century Mughal fortress and a symbol of Indian independence. Jama Masjid (free, INR 300 for tower) is India's largest mosque — remove shoes and dress modestly. Chandni Chowk market is one of Asia's oldest and most chaotic bazaars — walk it for the sensory experience alone. Spice Market (Khari Baoli) is the largest wholesale spice market in Asia — turmeric dust hangs in the air.
Humayun's Tomb (INR 600/$7) was built in 1572 and served as the architectural prototype for the Taj Mahal — same Mughal garden layout, same white marble and red sandstone. It's arguably more photogenic than the Taj with a fraction of the crowds. The surrounding Hazrat Nizamuddin area has a qawwali music tradition — Thursday evenings at the Nizamuddin Dargah are extraordinary.
Red Fort and Humayun's Tomb benefit from advance booking via the Archaeological Survey of India website, especially in peak season (Oct-Feb). Qutub Minar and most other sites can be bought at the gate. The composite ticket (INR 500) covers multiple ASI monuments and saves money if you're doing several in one day.
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