I flew into Port Blair not knowing quite what to expect and spent the next ten days wondering why it had taken me so long to come. The Andamans sit in the Bay of Bengal, 1,400km from the Indian mainland and 190km from Myanmar, and the isolation shows in the water — coral reefs, visibility to 25 meters, and beaches that genuinely compete with the Maldives at a fraction of the cost.
Radhanagar Beach on Havelock Island was named Asia’s best beach by Time Magazine and still deserves the ranking — 2km of powder-white sand backed by old-growth forest, with water that shifts from turquoise to cobalt through the day. Arrive at sunset. There are no beach vendors, no jet skis, no resort umbrellas. The forest comes down close to the water. It is the most beautiful beach in India.
The Elephant Beach snorkeling on Havelock, reached by boat or a 45-minute jungle trek, has some of the richest shallow coral in Asia — hard and soft coral gardens in clear warm water, with sea turtles, reef sharks, and fish of varieties I had no names for. I took a PADI Open Water course on my third day and spent the next six days underwater.
The Cellular Jail in Port Blair is essential and difficult. Built by the British to exile India’s political prisoners — independence fighters, freedom movement leaders — its solitary cells were designed to prevent communication between inmates. The sound and light show (evenings, ₹200) is melodramatic but the building itself is quietly devastating. Many of the prisoners never came home.
The Arrival
1,400km from the mainland and it shows — the water clarity, the coral, and Radhanagar Beach justify every connection flight.
Why the Andaman Islands deserve your attention
The Andamans offer something genuinely rare in modern travel: pristine natural environment that remains accessible. The archipelago of 572 islands has fewer than 40 inhabited and fewer than 10 open to tourists, and the marine environment benefits directly from this restriction. The coral reefs are healthy, the water is clear, and the beaches have not been developed to the point of losing their character.
The Cellular Jail adds historical depth to what would otherwise be a pure nature destination. The British used these remote islands to exile India’s political prisoners precisely because the distance made escape impossible and contact with the mainland minimal. The stories of the prisoners — many of whom died here — are part of understanding the full cost of India’s independence movement.
For divers and snorkelers, the Andamans represent India’s finest underwater environment: visibility to 30 meters, healthy coral, manta rays, reef sharks, sea turtles, and dive sites that reward multiple visits.
What To Explore
Asia's best beach, extraordinary coral reefs, and a colonial-era jail that tells India's full independence story.
What should you do in the Andaman Islands?
Radhanagar Beach (Beach 7, Havelock) — Time Magazine’s Asia’s Best Beach, and the claim holds. 2km of white sand backed by old-growth forest, with excellent sunset views. No vendors, no development. Free. Arrive by 5pm; stay for the sunset.
Elephant Beach Snorkeling (Havelock) — 45-minute jungle trek or 15-minute boat ride to one of the finest shallow snorkel sites in Asia. Hard and soft coral, sea turtles, reef sharks in clear warm water. Organized tours from Havelock approximately ₹1,500–2,500/person including equipment.
Scuba Diving — Some of India’s finest diving, with visibility 15–30m, healthy coral, and varied marine life. Barracuda City, Johnny’s Gorge, and the sites around South Andaman are the highlights. PADI Open Water certification approximately ₹18,000–25,000. Two-dive day trips from ₹3,000–5,000.
Cellular Jail (Port Blair) — The colonial-era prison built to exile India’s independence fighters. The solitary confinement cells, the records of the prisoners who died here, and the sound and light show (evenings, ₹200) are collectively sobering and essential.
Neil Island — Smaller and quieter than Havelock, with Natural Bridge (a limestone arch over the sea), Bharatpur Beach (calm and good for snorkeling), and a relaxed pace. 1.5 hours from Port Blair by ferry.
Bioluminescent Kayaking at Night (Havelock) — Night kayaking through water lit by bioluminescent plankton — each paddle stroke creates an electric blue glow. Organized tours from Havelock approximately ₹1,500–2,000/person.
Baratang Island (limestone caves) — Day trip from Port Blair through mangrove creeks to limestone caves and a mud volcano. The boat journey through the mangroves is itself extraordinary. Permits required; organized tours essential.
- Getting There: Fly to Port Blair (IXZ) from Kolkata (2h), Chennai (2h), or Delhi (3h). Flying is the only practical option for most visitors. Cruises and passenger ferries exist but take 60–80 hours.
- Best Time: October to April — dry season, calm seas, best diving conditions. May–September brings monsoon, rough seas, and ferry cancellations.
- Money: INR. Budget ₹2,500–4,000/day ($30–48 USD) for comfortable travel including accommodation on Havelock, meals, and activities. Diving adds costs significantly.
- Don't Miss: At least one sunset at Radhanagar Beach — and stay for the full color show, which takes thirty minutes to complete after the sun drops.
- Avoid: Visiting without booking ferry tickets in advance — government ferries fill 2–3 days ahead in peak season (December–February). Book online at the Andaman Port Blair website.
- Local Phrase: "Ferry kab chhootegi?" (FEH-ree KAB CHOOT-teh-GEE) — When does the ferry leave? Critical operational knowledge in the Andamans.
The Food
Fresh seafood straight from the Bay of Bengal, South Indian tiffin, and the best fish curry you will eat anywhere in India.
Where should you eat in the Andaman Islands?
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Fat Martin’s (Havelock) — The most consistent seafood restaurant on the island. Fresh fish, prawns, and squid cooked simply and well. Full meal approximately ₹500–900 ($6–11 USD). The grilled barramundi is the benchmark.
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New Lighthouse Restaurant (Port Blair) — The reference Port Blair seafood spot, serving fresh Bay of Bengal catch with rice and curry. Full meal ₹400–700.
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South Indian tiffin (Port Blair) — The Tamil and Bengali communities of Port Blair produce excellent South Indian breakfast: idli, vada, dosa with sambar and chutneys. Look for the tiffin stands near the ferry terminal for the most authentic versions.
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Fresh coconut at the beach — Not a restaurant but the most iconic Andaman refreshment: young green coconut hacked open and served with a straw for ₹40–60. Available everywhere near beaches.
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Eco-resort restaurants (Havelock) — The better eco-resorts serve good seafood and Indian food, often using local produce. Not the cheapest option but convenient and reliable.
Where to Stay
Base on Havelock for the beaches and diving — stay near Radhanagar for the sunset access and Beach 5 for the dive operators.
Where should you stay in the Andaman Islands?
Budget (₹1,200–3,000/night, ~$14–36 USD): Several guesthouses and eco-huts near Radhanagar Beach and Beach 5 on Havelock offer basic but atmospheric accommodation. Symphony Palms Beach Resort and Pristine Beach Resort offer budget cabins close to the beach.
Mid-range (₹4,000–8,000/night, ~$48–96 USD): Barefoot at Havelock is the benchmark mid-range eco-resort — bamboo cottages in forest setting near Radhanagar, good restaurant, diving center. Consistently rated Havelock’s best mid-range property.
Luxury (₹15,000–40,000+/night, ~$180–480+ USD): Taj Exotica Resort & Spa on Havelock is the standout luxury option, with overwater bungalows and a private beach. Jalakara (formerly by IHCL) is another premium option.
Before You Go
Seven days minimum. Ten is better. The islands reward those who don't rush.
When is the best time to visit the Andaman Islands?
October to April is the window: dry season, calm seas, excellent diving visibility (20–30m), and the best beach weather. December to February is peak season — book ferries and accommodation well in advance.
May to September brings the monsoon: rough seas, frequent ferry cancellations, and many resorts closing or operating at reduced capacity. Some visitors find the off-season atmosphere and significantly lower prices worthwhile; diving is possible in protected areas but sea conditions are unpredictable.
The Andamans work as a standalone India trip or as an extension of a South India circuit from Chennai or Kolkata. See the full India destinations guide or plan your India itinerary at /plan/.